You'll see it everywhere on social media, shaped like a heart, a drop or a comb. Behind the trend, gua sha is a simple gesture: a flat, smooth tool that you glide over oiled skin. Here's how to approach it as a beginner, with realistic expectations and the right habits.
What is a gua sha?
The word comes from Chinese: « gua » means to scrape or smooth, and « sha » refers to the temporary redness that the traditional technique leaves on the body. In its beauty version, the one we're talking about here, it's a facial gua sha: a smooth tool with rounded edges that you glide gently over the face and neck, always on oiled skin, and never with the aim of marking the skin.
It's often called a « gua sha stone », because many are carved from stone such as rose quartz or jade. You'll also find them in glass, steel, ceramic or resin. The material mainly changes how it feels and how much it weighs; the gesture stays the same.
Where does the practice come from?
Gua sha comes from traditional Chinese medicine, where it has been practised for centuries, mostly on the back and shoulders. The gentle facial version we know today became popular in Western beauty routines much more recently. It takes the idea of a slow, steady manual massage and adapts it to a far more delicate area.
What can you really expect from it?
Let's be clear: a gua sha is neither a medical treatment nor a magic wand. What it brings, first and foremost, is a moment. The coolness of a smooth surface, the slow rhythm of the strokes, your breathing slowing down: many people adopt it for that pause, morning or evening. Some also find their face looks more relaxed and rested after the massage. That's a personal feeling that varies from person to person, and that's absolutely fine.
How do you choose your first gua sha?
- Shape: a heart is ideal for beginners, because each part has an obvious use. The rounded edges for the cheeks and forehead, the dip for the jawline and neck, the point for delicate areas.
- Finish: the edges must be perfectly smooth, with no sharp ridges or chips. Run your finger along them before the first use.
- Size: it should sit comfortably in your hand without being too heavy.
- Care: choose a tool that's easy to rinse and dry, one you'll want to reach for every day.
How do you use a gua sha as a beginner?
Start with clean skin, then apply a few drops of oil or serum. Hold the gua sha almost flat against the skin, with light pressure. Always work upwards and from the centre outwards: from the base of the neck to the jawline, from the chin to the ear, from the side of the nose to the temple, from the centre of the forehead to the temples. Three to five strokes per area is enough. We go through each move in our illustrated step-by-step.
What routine should you follow in the first week?
To get into the habit without losing heart, start small. For the first two days, just do the neck and jawline. Over the next few days, add the cheeks, then the forehead. By the end of the week, you'll naturally move through every area in five minutes. Notice how it feels: the coolness, the relaxation, wanting to do it again. That's what will tell you whether the ritual suits you, far more than any promise.
Which oil should you use?
You need just enough for the tool to glide without dragging. A plant oil your skin already knows, or your usual serum, will do nicely. Our tips for choosing are in our article on gua sha oil.
Common beginner mistakes
- Using the gua sha on dry skin: it pulls and drags.
- Pressing too hard or holding the tool upright.
- Going over irritated skin, inflamed spots or skin that's just had a cosmetic treatment.
- Rushing: the slow movement is what makes the ritual so enjoyable.
- Forgetting to clean it after use. Here's how to look after it.
What time of day is best?
There's no right or wrong time. In the morning, a gua sha chilled for a few minutes in the fridge gives you a real fresh start to the day: that's the idea behind our 5-minute morning routine. In the evening, the same gesture done more slowly after removing your make-up becomes a moment to unwind before bed. The key is to choose a time you can stick to, so the ritual becomes a habit rather than a chore.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take? Five minutes is enough for the face and neck.
Every day? It depends on you and your skin: a few times a week or daily, as long as it feels pleasant.
Gua sha or roller? The two complement each other. We compare them in gua sha or jade roller: which should you choose?.
Fancy trying the heart-shaped ritual? Discover the Roselyse gua sha
Article written by the Roselyse team. This advice is general and does not replace the advice of a healthcare professional: if you have a skin condition, ask a dermatologist.